The bare necessities... in Leticia, Colombia (Part Two)

Read Part One.

Part Two.

"Ever let the Fancy roam

Pleasure never is at home..."

An extract taken from the poem "Fancy" by John Keats; 1795 -1821.

Living hidden away in the depth of the dense Colombian Amazon Rainforest is a small community known as the “Israelitas”, Colombian settlers of Christian faith that believe in the teachings of the Old Testament. Over twenty families reside in ecological housing built around a small church for prayers and community events. Completely self-sufficient and free from the “system” the rest of us are entangled in, these families cultivate rice, fruit and vegetables for their own consumption and sell their organic products to the residents of Leticia. Their only obligation, as such, is to welcome into their home a government official who monitors their agricultural activity every month.

This official was our “guide” for the two day trek in the rainforest, and was currently trying to find our host. Having gone the wrong way just before the end of our first day of hiking through virgin rainforest, we had walked as far as the forest allowed us and were overlooking the still waters of the Calderón River, about to collapse at the sudden lack of momentum. The guide shouted to get the attention of the family he expected to be waiting for us on the other side - our futile attempts to help him by whistling with dry, thirsty mouths slightly comical - before realising something wasn’t right. He took Isma’s head torch, the only light we had, and took off to find the right route, leaving us to wait alone in the black noise of the Amazon Rainforest. Wet, filthy and exhausted, my thoughts wandered back to carefree days gone by and within seconds I was in front of the crackling fireplace in my parents’ home. Sitting cozily on the snug carpet, I dunk ginger biscuits into a hot cup of tea while talking to my Mom about nothing and everything, my Dad half-listening to our incessant chatter - joining in when appropriate, our faces gradually getting warmer against the flames. Even now, as I write this, I find it strange that my mind ached to be back in front of that fireplace in England, where I spent so many hours of my childhood daydreaming about being a million miles away. The mocking buzz of a mosquito quickly transported me back to the darkness where we remained perched awkwardly on a rough log under the pitch black sky. Waiting uncomfortably, hunger our faithful companion during every second of what felt like hours in the forest, we tried not to think about the very real possibility of having to spend the night sleeping amongst the jeering trees. And then a sound. Like the repetitive chugging of a scooter engine… far too familiar to be real in a rainforest. I chided myself for being overly optimistic, but couldn’t help but smile as it got louder and closer, filling the darkness with hope. My heart celebrated as two silhouettes appeared on what the Colombians call a peque peque: a small boat that makes a sound true to its name. Within half an hour we were finally taking off our muddy boots in the safety of a wooden house in the middle of the rainforest.

After a difficult night, where the soothing sounds of nature surrounding our cabin were interrupted by fruit bats flapping frantically around our bed, we woke up to a breakfast of fresh pineapples - a blessing seeing as the bats had eaten our bananas - and explored this alternative paradise before putting on our wet boots in preparation for the long walk through the rainforest back to Leticia. As we retraced the steps we had made the day before, I thought about the old expression: home is where the heart is, one that has never rung true for me, and questioned my mind’s unoriginal desire the night before to be back in the house I grew up in. And it wasn’t until dusk fell on us once more that it dawned on me... restless souls simply yearn to be somewhere else.

Guess what I found out in Leticia?

1. The Israelites have a no alcohol, no drugs and no cigarettes policy, and live in accordance with the Old Testament. The men have long hair and beards, while the women dress modestly and cover their hair with long veils.

2. The majority of the Amazon belongs to Brazil, with 60% of the rainforest, followed by Peru with 13%, Colombia with 10%, and with minor amounts in Venezuela, Ecuador, Bolivia, Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana.

3. In 2010 wars between the paramilitaries and guerrilla groups such as FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) caused many areas of Colombia including the Amazon to be extremely unsafe. The fight for power between these terrorist organisations began in the mid sixties and continues today.