Back to the future... in Sapa, Vietnam

A good friend of mine always tells me that we call 'now' and 'today' the present because it is a gift. As simple as it seems, it’s a concept I often struggle with when travelling, being someone who is prone to planning ahead and therefore “living” in the future… but I guess the future never comes... After lazy Laos, the streets of Vietnam’s capital city were slightly terrifying. We were welcomed into humid Hanoi by roaring buses, furiously charging down the main roads amidst a frenzy of motorbikes threatening to run us over every time we even considered crossing the street. I desperately tried to follow the advice we had been given by other backpackers we had met in Asia: “just close your eyes and walk - the motorbikes will drive around you!” and although stepping in front of a dozen headlights felt like poorly planned suicide at best - it worked.

We live to tell the tale...

Once we had spent a couple of days dripping around the tourist attractions, The Temple of Literature, the War Museum and the former prison often referred to as Hanoi Hilton to name a few, we were ready for some fresh, mountain air. A hop, skip and a night train later we found ourselves 345km north west of Hanoi in the scenic town of Sapa. Established as a hill station by the French in 1922, Sapa is home to many ethnic minorities, even though the town appears to have been taken over by three main groups: the Black Hmong the women easily recognised by their dark traditional dress and signature hairstyle; the Red Dao women who don large, red turbans; and of course the third group: Backpackers - complete with The North Fake attire and oversized cameras.

Although it would be ironic of us to complain about the tourism boom in Sapa, it’s true that we were slightly disappointed by the constant sound of women shouting “souvenirs… shopping!” and the consequent smell of inauthenticity in the air. We realised very quickly that the highlight of Sapa was going to be a trek out of the main town. So, we asked one of the local Black Hmong women to take us to her village, a beautiful five hour walk from the centre. We trudged awkwardly up the mountain roads, the sharp rays of the sun piercing through our rucksacks, while our guide seamlessly glided up and down the hills, despite having a chubby baby tied to her back! Along the way we learnt about the peculiarities of Hmong mountain culture, brought alive by the occasional piglets, both pink and black, trotting rhythmically beside us, holding our attention until we became distracted by furry yellow chicks that looked as though they had been picked from a child’s Easter bonnet. Shortly before reaching our destination, we took a break by sitting on a grassy hill to rest our tired legs. Fatigue was all too easily forgotten as we looked down towards the villages where vistas of lush, green rice paddies were interrupted only by a flutter of enormous, yellow butterflies, dancing around us, like spring-time with wings. I was enthralled by the perfect present for some minutes, until my thoughts began to fly away into the future. And it’s a shame, but I already knew the beautiful image before me would forever haunt my mind, a prickly flashback every time I felt trapped by walls and routine. However, it would also be a constant reminder of why we travel, a souvenir I would take with me on the rest of my trip - and even back home - to remember how the present can become the past all too soon… Guess what I found out in Vietnam?

1. Hanoi Hilton was the sarcastic nickname given to the former French prison by the American soldiers captured by the Vietnamese in the war. Although they were held in captivity and tortured, they were made to sign documents upon their release that stated that they had been “treated like guests”, enjoying good food and drink and learning about the Vietnamese culture. You are told, when visiting the prison today, that when the prisoners were finally released, their view of the Vietnamese and war in general had changed dramatically.

2. Both the Red Dao and Black Hmong women melt copper on to their teeth, giving the appearance of a gold tooth, as it is considered a sign of beauty. Shaved eyebrows (Red Dao) and hair that is never cut (Black Hmong) are other examples of vanity.

3. The ample rice grown by the Black Hmong is for the sole purpose of consumption, as they eat this staple food at least three times a day.