Keeping it real… in Rajasthan's Jaipur

Jaipur, the capital city of the regal state of Rajasthan, is a place I always wanted to visit. Having grown up watching colourful Bollywood films where sexy, yet traditional, Rajasthani dress often makes an appearance, India’s largest state represented what was, for me, the real India. And when it comes to colour, Jaipur, better known as the “Pink City” because of its sandstone buildings, doesn’t disappoint: the bazaars sparkle with precious-gemstone jewellery (and not-so-precious stones found on elephant souvenirs) all against a bright backdrop of rainbow rolls of fabric, reminding you that you’re in the country that is deservedly famous for its vibrant colours.

However, after 4 days here, I've started to wonder… is the picture I painted of a real India actually real? Are the trunks of (real life) elephants painted because that’s just how they roll, or is it all part of the city’s self-aware act to show tourists what they think we want to see? Do the Rajasthani musicians near every major monument just happen to be the only men in immaculate, traditional dress? Why aren’t they wearing tank tops like all the other men in the street?(!) The music is real, but are they?

Let me put it another way using a country that is just as close to my heart: España. Yes, horse- drawn carriages were the way to get around Seville for the wealthy, once upon a time, but for eighty euros I can assure you there aren’t many Spaniards using this mode of transport for sightseeing today. The same goes for “Flamenco” shows in generic Spanish resorts, where dozens of dancers in their matching polka-dot dresses provide foreigners or guiris with entertainment that is nothing but a caricature of its former, traditional self. Of course, the average traveller is pretty savvy nowadays, but in a country like India where everything is alien for many western folk the lines between what’s real and artificial can be a little more blurred.

Going back to my earlier point, is the stuff that stereotypes are made of in Rajasthan, or Andalusia for that matter, really representative of the country? Well, as a rule of thumb, when attractions of any kind feel the need to use the word “authentic”, they’re probably not. So, that expensive restaurant with strangely milder versions of your favourite Indian dishes is obviously another tourist trap.

Nevertheless, it's worth noting that Jaipur does try hard to conserve her culture (and succeeds); textile warehouses specialising in block printing and intricate embroidery continue to provide the rest of the world with luxurious home furnishings and ethnic fashion. But, like every other city, Rajasthan's capital has moved with the times and the conundrum: what came first, the tourist tat or the tourist? will have to go unresolved for now. Maybe major cities can no longer show us authenticity, but just when you think the olden days you so crave are gone, a shoal of Rajasthani women collecting their children from school walk by, flamboyant dupattas tucked into their teeth, completely unaware that they are being watched from a hotel balcony across the road... by an authentic tourist in her Ali baba trousers.

Guess what I found out in Jaipur?

1. Polo, arguably the oldest recorded team sport in known history, was in fact invented in India before the 16th century- it was a sport that the Maharajas of Jaipur later became world famous for.

2. Jaipur wasn’t officially conquered by the Moghul Empire. This is reflected in the 300 year old Hindu architecture; many buildings look as though they were built a lot more recently, as they have never been destroyed.

3. Sixty goats are sheared to make one 100% pashmina scarf, as only the fur from the throat makes the cut ;)

Stay tuned for photos of this truly beautiful city.