Seeing how the other half live(d) … in Delhi

"If on earth there be a place of bliss It is this, it is this, it is this…” An inscription on one of the walls at Diwan–I–Khas in the Red Fort

I never thought I’d say this, but when leaving Nepal, India started to represent civilisation for us. The idea of electricity 24 hours a day, as well as a power shower and some warmth, albeit a smoggy cloud of heat provided by the polluted city sky, seemed like a dream come true. And it has been, when it’s not interrupted by the nightmare that is Delhi’s traffic. By now we’re already used to feeling as though the end is nigh when strapped inside the metal death traps they call cars, but being a pedestrian in the centre of Delhi is a whole new (risky) business. Avoiding the rickshaws, the auto rickshaws, the scooters, the motorbikes, the cars, the buses and the lorries, not to mention the occasional cow, whilst the aforementioned vehicles furiously try to avoid the stray dogs sauntering along the road - all to the deafening soundtrack of horns being beeped - can slowly, drive you a little bit mad (excuse the pun).

It’s been 8 years since I was last in India and I have to say, the familiar smell of gulab jamun being fished out of cauldrons of boiling oil, the distinct smell of scooter petrol left lingering in the air by Vespas and the strong, strange scent of mothballs in the bathrooms is, for me, comfort in the chaos. India is always described as a country of colour, a photographer’s dream, a playground for the eyes! - but for me, it’s this distinct smell that takes me back to the place I spent many an idle summer in when I was younger. Needless to say, sometimes the pungent smell in the street is something a lot more unpleasant, but nothing new for those who have wandered around Madrid’s Chueca on a Sunday morning.

As you walk around Old Delhi, the cities metropolitan centre, you are very much aware of how much better off than everyone else you are - a street vendor probably makes in a month what you spend on your weekly shop. But then you visit the incredible, majestic red sandstone tombs and palaces left behind by the Mughal Empire that ruled over Northern India during the 16th century, and you’re reminded of the fact that you are actually the poor, dirty traveller in this land of fairytales. From the 73 metre high Qutab Minar tower, to the massive Red Fort, Delhi’s mesmerising architecture is simply immense; fitting for a city with a population of around 18 million.

If you want to know about how to get around India's capital city, look out for India in a nutshell (coming soon to a computer screen near you), where the metro and rickshaw forms of transport will be discussed. Those of you who just want to be hypnotised can see my beautiful cameraman’s beautiful photos here.

Guess what I found out in Delhi?

1. Delhi is a city with a bloody history. It has been fought over, destroyed and re-built several times, with each new ruler leaving his mark on the city, explaining the rich architecture we can see today.

2. Delhi has not always been the capital of India. Under the British, Kolkotta (Calcutta) had the honour for a long time, until Delhi was reinstated in 1912.

3. Khari Baoli situated in Old Delhi is Asia's largest wholesale spice market - a must see for first time visitors.